In a trend-driven streetwear scene, Thomas Welch’s Winwel label wants longevity.
By Josh Davis for Sweet. Photographs by Thomas Welch
Since officially launching in November 2014, streetwear brand Winwel has earned co-signs from established style outlets like Hypebeast and Complex, along with a stamp of approval from the hottest retailer in Japan, United Arrows. But having grown up obsessed with streetwear, founder Thomas Welch is wary of the industry’s pitfalls—specifically, fizzling out after a hot start.
Although he’s already five seasons into designing his minimal brand—which began as a T-shirt project during college—Welch doesn’t want to rest on his laurels, and remains focused on being able to make five more collections, and then some. To do that, each offering has to be more successful than the last, which isn’t easy to ensure when you’ve got a full-time job, and no formal design training.
As his best collection yet hits the web, we talked with Welch about the process of building a brand from scratch, and what he’s most proud of so far.
OK Thomas, so what does "Winwel" mean?
The name is a reference to me and my best friend from middle school, who’s actually my roommate now. I got the idea from the company that my dad worked for at the time, which was a combination of the first three letters of each owner’s last name. Winwel was that combination for our names—it just sounded dope. I can’t even remember what the other options were.
How would you describe the look of the brand to someone who hasn’t seen it?
If I had to compare my brand to anything, it would be [Swedish contemporary label] Our Legacy meets Thom Browne and Stüssy. It’s T-shirts combined with contemporary design; it’s the spectrum of streetwear for guys.
What have you learned from watching brands like that?
Well, I’m not trying to take over the world in two years. I’m scared of having too much hype. I’d rather take the slow approach. Really, I’m thinking 10 years ahead—I’m not in it for a quick buck.
Well, that sounds great. What did you start making first for Winwel?
Originally, I wanted to do hats. I always had this idea of what I wanted to make, but there was never really the right spot to do it. It kind of fell in my lap: a friend from Dallas who was moving to New York City told me that he was friends with the people who run the Knickerbocker factory in Ridgewood—half a mile from my apartment. I met the crew at Knickerbocker, and they were down to do hats. It’s cool because now, I know the name of everyone that’s working on my stuff, from those sewing the samples, to production.
So you learned all about manufacturing on the fly?
Yeah, I’d go to the factory on weekends and just watch them make stuff. The owners are all super excited to answer questions. Honestly, some of the workers there were still learning to sew at the time, so I learned alongside them.
Speaking of production, how do you run a clothing brand without any design training?
The way that I design—and the way that I know other designers work—is by working off of my favorite garments. If the inspiration is a Mackintosh coat, but I want to make an overcoat with a big lapel, I’ll find a big lapel and incorporate it. It’s kind of like the way producers sample music.
Is Winwel a brand for everyone?
I don’t think people are falling into the whole brand name thing anymore. Nobody goes into Louis Vuitton, Gucci, or any of those stores and cops all of that stuff. Guys want the expensive, flashy shoes, but a cheaper T-shirt and beanie. That’s kind of how Winwel works, I’m making expensive outerwear, but I don’t inflate the prices of my other pieces as a result of that. I’m selling tees and beanies at standard streetwear tee price: they’re between $32–$50.
Here, Welch walks us through his five favorite items from the collection.
